Sun, March 21, 2010
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Food Politics

The Butcher, the Baker, the Kombucha Tea-Maker

Bacon and Sausage from Fleisher's

Bacon and Sausage from Fleisher's

On Sunday, a few friends and I schlepped down to the southeastern tip of Manhattan to check out the New Amsterdam Market. As I reported last week, this market is a world apart from regular farmer’s markets in that it consists of a medley of food purveyors who make and/or distribute foods that are local in origin. For example: bakers, butchers, cheesemongers, grocers, fishmongers, kimchi-makers, foragers, kombucha-makers, chocolatiers, etc. Even several New York city and Brooklyn restaurants had a presence: Saltie from Williamsburg, Porchetta from the E. Village, and Luke’s Lobster (also from the E. Village). (Luke’s Lobster won the prize for having the longest continuous line.)

Each vendor was selling something and most of them were exceedingly generous with their samples. My favorite purchases were from the dairy category: a blueberry yogurt smoothie made from grass-fed milk from Maple Hill Creamery (based in Little Falls, NY); a rich and creamy (and award-winning!) “Renaissance” ricotta from Narragansett Creamery in Providence, which I spread on my toast this morning; and a hunk of Vermont cheese that, Anne Saxelby told me, is a cross between an aged gouda and a Gruyere (two of my all-time favorite cheeses).  The market did not have raw milk, alas, but I was able to try some Brooklyn-fermented kombucha tea (unpasteurized) and  I also bought two vials of elderberry concentrate from a hippie couple who were selling mushrooms and other medicinals. (Just in case I don’t get my hands on a swine flu vaccine this year.)

Here’s some photographic evidence of the afternoon, which ended with an enlightening butchering demonstration, emceed by family-farm advocate (and the executive director of last year’s Slow Food Nation) Anya Fernald. The mission of the market, which is located directly in front of the historic Fulton Fish Market, is to support regional agriculture and local food businesses by reviving the public market in the city. Right now, it’s only monthly, but market director Robert LaValva and his team are hoping to persuade the city to let it happen more frequently. The next market is on November 22, so New Yorkers: mark your calenders. (To support the market by donating your time or money, go here.)

Potato-Leek Pie from Saltie

Potato-Leek Pie from Saltie

Kimchi

Kimchi

Fresh Mussels

Fresh Mussels

There Were Even Treats for our Feline Friends

There Were Even Treats for our Feline Friends

Robert LaValva, Founder of the New Amsterdam Market

Robert LaValva, Founder of the New Amsterdam Market

Hannah Wallace

Hannah Wallace is a Brooklyn-based journalist who writes mainly about integrative health, food, and travel. She is a frequent contributor to Body + Soul and Salon.com, and her articles and book ...
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